When most people think of India, the first image that springs to mind is probably the Taj Mahal. I’ve been there, done that and wanted more.
This time, I headed back to India with 11 of my Wendy’s Wanderers for a completely different adventure – travelling from the hustle and bustle of Delhi into the Himalayan foothills, through the former British hill station of Shimla, on to spiritual Dharamsala and finally to Amritsar and the breathtaking Golden Temple.
And what a journey it was!
Our adventure took us through four very different sides of northern India, with mountains, temples, Tibetan culture, colonial history, bustling markets and some incredibly moving experiences along the way.
First stop – Delhi
We flew from London Heathrow into Delhi, and there really is no gentle introduction to India!
Delhi is big, busy, colourful, noisy and utterly fascinating. Modern New Delhi sits alongside centuries of history, and our first afternoon gave us a brilliant introduction to the city.
We visited the magnificent Qutub Minar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 12th century.
We also saw India Gate, Parliament House and the impressive Rashtrapati Bhavan – the President’s Palace.
After a long flight from the UK, it was quite a first day!
Up into the Himalayas – Shimla
The following morning we left Delhi early and travelled by train towards Kalka, before continuing into the mountains and Shimla.
Shimla sits around 2,200 metres above sea level and couldn’t feel more different from Delhi. Pine-covered hills, cooler mountain air and beautiful colonial architecture give it an almost timeless feel.
It was once the summer capital of British India, and you can still see that history everywhere. There are lots of Apple orchards in this area- I can recommend the local cider!
One of my favourite ways to discover a destination is on foot, and our heritage walk through Shimla took us past some of the wonderful buildings left from the days of the British Raj.
We visited the Viceregal Lodge, once the residence of the British Viceroy, climbed to Jakhu Temple, the highest point in Shimla with fabulous Himalayan views, and visited the historic Gaiety Theatre. A word of warning- the monkeys at the temple were the most aggressive I’ve seen anywhere! One of the ladies was attacked, totally unprovoked, and needed several trips to hospital for a series of rabies jabs. Before travelling to anywhere in the world where rabies is present I would recommend rabies jabs before travelling.
One of the highlights was a journey on the world famous ‘toy train’ we enjoyed exploring the old station, riding the train and seeing scenery and Indian life along the tracks
Our hotel was on Mall Road – great for browsing, shopping and people-watching!
We also ventured further into the mountains to Fagu Peak and Kufri, surrounded by pine forests, valleys and panoramic Himalayan scenery. This is the India that many visitors simply don’t realise exists. We saw Himalayan griffon vultures flying overhead whilst our guide told us about local customs and rituals including sky burials.
Dharamsala – a completely different side of India
Next we travelled through the mountains to Dharamsala, home to the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government-in-exile.
Again, it felt like we’d arrived somewhere completely different.
The combination of Himalayan scenery, Buddhist spirituality and Tibetan culture gives Dharamsala a very special atmosphere.
We explored McLeod Ganj, sometimes called Little Lhasa, visited St John in the Wilderness Church and saw Bhagsunag Falls. We stopped at a tea garden to try various flavoured teas- I enjoyed a saffron one.
Another fascinating stop was the Norbulingka Institute, which was established to preserve Tibetan arts and culture. Here traditional skills including thangka painting, wood carving, embroidery and handicrafts are being kept alive for future generations.
This was one of those parts of the trip where it was lovely simply to slow down and absorb where we were.
A night in a Himalayan heritage village
Rather than racing straight on to our next major city, we stopped in Pragpur, a small heritage village in the Kangra Valley.
We stayed at historic Judge’s Court Hotel and explored the village on foot, discovering cobbled streets, traditional Himachali architecture and a much quieter, rural way of life. We enjoyed getting involved in a cookery demo followed by drinks on the lawn, surprised by a band of musicians playing pipes and drums – What a special evening !
Food at the hotel was served in the ornate family dining room- home grown vegetables, homemade preserves and breads, a great selection of dishes and attentive staff – a real treat.
It was a lovely contrast to India’s cities – and exactly why I enjoy itineraries that include some of the lesser-known places rather than just ticking off the headline sights.
Amritsar – one of the highlights
Next came Amritsar, this was a place I had really been looking forward to.
Amritsar is the spiritual heart of Sikhism and home to one of India’s most extraordinary sights – the Golden Temple.
Nothing really prepares you for seeing it.
Surrounded by its sacred pool, the gold-covered Harmandir Sahib is beautiful, but it isn’t simply the building that makes this place special. It’s the atmosphere, the people and the sense of welcome.
The Golden Temple welcomes people of every faith, and its enormous community kitchen – the Langar – provides free meals to thousands of people every day, prepared and served by volunteers.
We also visited Jallianwala Bagh, memorialising those killed in the massacre of 13 April 1919. It’s an important and sobering part of the story of British rule in India and the country’s struggle for independence.
From somewhere incredibly reflective, we then went to something completely different!
The Wagah Border ceremony
The Attari–Wagah Border between India and Pakistan hosts its famous flag-lowering ceremony every evening. 20,000 people gather at the purpose built ‘arena’
Calling it a flag ceremony doesn’t really do it justice! I think its one of the most bonkers things I’ve ever seen
It’s colourful, energetic and theatrical, with the Indian and Pakistani border forces performing the ceremony on their respective sides of the border.
It’s certainly one of the more unusual experiences to add to your India travels.
Back to Delhi – with one last adventure
Our final day brought us full circle, flying from Amritsar back to Delhi.
But I wasn’t letting the Wanderers escape without one last taste of India!
We headed into Old Delhi and Chandni Chowk, one of the city’s oldest and busiest markets, for a cycle-rickshaw ride through its narrow streets and colourful bazaars.
It’s chaotic, noisy, crowded and completely brilliant – basically India turned up to eleven!
Afterwards we had some free time around Connaught Place and a final dinner together before heading back to Delhi Airport for our overnight flight home.
So, would I recommend this side of India?
If you’ve already visited the classic Golden Triangle – or perhaps you want an Indian adventure that’s a little different – absolutely put northern India on your radar.
What I loved about this journey was the contrast.
One day you’re amongst the traffic and monuments of Delhi. Then you’re looking across the Himalayas from Shimla. You’re discovering Tibetan culture in Dharamsala, wandering through a tiny heritage village in Pragpur and then standing beside the shimmering Golden Temple in Amritsar.
It wasn’t just one India.It felt like several different countries rolled into one incredible journey.
And that’s exactly why I keep going back.
Want to experience India but don’t know where to start?
That’s where we come in. We can help create an India itinerary that suits you – whether that’s the Taj Mahal and Rajasthan, tigers and wildlife, the Himalayas and northern India, or a combination of them all.
My Top Tips for a Trip to India
Having travelled to India several times now, I can safely say it’s one of those countries that excites, surprises, overwhelms and amazes you – sometimes all within the same five minutes!
Here are a few things I think are worth knowing before you go:
- carry some cash. Cards are widely accepted in hotels and larger places, but small denomination rupees are invaluable for tips, toilets, little shops and markets. I always have US$1 notes too
- ATMs are plentiful – you can’t get Rupees in the UK
- You will need inoculations – talk to your GP practice well in advance
- You will need a visa, at the time of writing this was online, as well as a health declaration and landing card. See the FCO Gov website for current travel advice
- Stick to bottled water and check that the seal is intact. I use bottled water for brushing my teeth too.
- Avoid eating salads and fruit ( unless you can wash it and peel it) No ice in drinks, use a cup rather than drinking from a can or bottle
- Keep tissues and hand sanitiser in your bag. You’ll thank me for this one!
- Purchase an E-Sim or use WiFi when available to avoid costly mobile bills
- Dress respectfully. Lightweight, loose clothing that covers shoulders and knees is ideal, particularly when visiting temples and religious sites. A scarf is really useful too as some places need head covering.
- Be prepared to be asked for photos. It’s a very strange feeling and once one person asks you, before you know you have a queue!
- Say Namaste for hello, thank you, good bye with hands together and smile. Indian people are quite shy but they will be warm and welcoming when you are too.
- Wear comfortable shoes that are easy to take on and off. You’ll remove your shoes at many religious sites.
- Cereal bars and snacks are useful for in your bag, you may be eating at different times to those you are used to
- Take meds from home but ask your guide to take you to a pharmacy if you need anything. They are very good and very cheap
- Pack a spare pair of dark socks. Temple floors can get very hot and dusty, sometimes you may prefer not to walk barefoot.
- Don’t assume everything will blow your head off! Indian food varies enormously by region. If you’re worried about spice, ask for dishes to be made milder.
- Food is predominantly vegetarian but you will find chicken options- you won’t get a steak, cows are sacred!
- Don’t encourage the monkeys! Cute from a distance; considerably less cute when one decides it fancies whatever you’re holding. I think it’s worth having rabies vaccinations before you go too.
- Forget everything you know about road rules. Indian traffic is an experience in itself. Horns are constant, lanes can seem optional, expect to see cows, dogs, crowded tuk tuks, lorries ,tractors,horse carts, people, bikes- somehow it all works!
- Don’t try to cram too much in. Distances can be deceptive and journeys often take longer than you’d expect. India is much more enjoyable when you give yourself time.
- Follow your guide’s advice around local customs.
- enjoy a massage – lots of hotels have spa facilities, it’s much cheaper than at home £20-£30 for a wonderful 45 minute massage
- Embrace it rather than compare it with home. India can be noisy, chaotic and confronting at times, but that’s part of the experience. Go with an open mind.
And my biggest tip? Use a good guide.
A great guide doesn’t just show you the sights. They explain what you’re seeing, help you understand the culture, navigate the organised chaos and introduce you to an India you’d probably never discover on your own.
On our latest Wanderers adventure, we travelled from Delhi into the Himalayan foothills, through Shimla, Dharamsala and Pragpur before reaching Amritsar – an itinerary full of contrasts.
India isn’t just a holiday. It’s an experience – and one you’ll be talking about long after you’ve come home.
