A journey from Hanoi to the coast – and why we’re already planning our return
Vietnam had been high on our wish list for a long time, and it did not disappoint. From chaotic cities and peaceful countryside to lantern-lit evenings and dramatic limestone landscapes, this is a country that constantly surprises you.
Here’s how our adventure in Nov ’25 unfolded – along with plenty of tips if Vietnam is on your radar.
Hanoi – Old Quarter Charm & Controlled Chaos
We began our journey in Hanoi, staying in the Old Quarter near Hoan Kiem Lake. This area is perfect for soaking up local life. A gentle walk around the lake reveals locals taking part in line dancing and fitness classes, families enjoying ice creams, musicians and dancers performing, and couples strolling hand in hand.
As night falls, the bridge and shrine light up beautifully, making it a wonderful spot for photos and people-watching.
One of our first experiences was a traditional water puppet show. At around £7, it’s fantastic value and cleverly done – lighthearted, entertaining and uniquely Vietnamese.
Food was a highlight from day one. We embraced street food, sitting on tiny plastic stools, pointing at pictures and smiling a lot. You may not always know exactly what you’re ordering, but that’s half the fun – and everything was fresh and tasty.
We also had to try Hanoi’s famous egg coffee. Let’s just say… it’s an experience. Think warm Advocaat mixed with coffee. Interesting, but not something I’ll be ordering again!
Things to Do in Hanoi
- Train Street – utterly bonkers and unforgettable. Sitting at a trackside bar, everything is frantically cleared as the bells ring and the train roars past inches away. As soon as it’s gone, tables, stools and vendors reappear as if nothing happened.
- Foot massage – around £7 in a local spa and very welcome after walking.
- Wandering the Old Quarter – endlessly fascinating street life.
- Crossing the road – an adventure in itself. Don’t run, walk confidently and trust that the traffic will flow around you.
- There’s plenty of museums, temples and other places to see depending on how much time you have
We also took a full-day trip to Ninh Binh, the old capital. Here we visited temples and enjoyed a peaceful bamboo boat ride through limestone caves. One temple houses Vietnam’s largest bell, rung only twice a year.
Halong Bay – Limestone at Sunset
Next came an overnight cruise in Halong Bay, around four hours bus journey from Hanoi. Even the journey was interesting – including our first taste of coconut coffee at a service station.
From the harbour, we took a speedboat to our ship. Cruising through the bay at sunset, surrounded by dramatic limestone karsts, was breathtaking. Our cabin was comfortable with a private balcony, and the cruise included a bamboo boat trip into a cave.
We did, however, politely decline the karaoke on deck… ha ha
Hue – Imperial History & Birthday Treats
Our next stop was Hue, reached by a short internal flight. Once Vietnam’s imperial capital, it sits peacefully along the river and is rich in history.
We spent a full day touring the city with a local guide, exploring the Imperial City, mausoleums, temples and markets. We also visited an incense factory and tried making incense sticks ourselves – they’re seen everywhere in Vietnam and look beautiful when photographed in large bundles.
As it was my husband’s birthday, we treated ourselves to a spa day back at our very comfortable hotel – a perfect way to relax.
Danang & Ba Na Hills – Mountains, Marble & the Golden Bridge
From Hue, we continued by road to Danang, stopping along the way at some iconic sights:
- Ba Na Hills & the Golden Bridge, reached by a huge cable car and funicular railway (not ideal if you’re scared of heights!). It was incredibly busy, with queues for photos. The entire complex feels a bit like Disneyland, with themed areas, alpine rides, hotels and even a brewery.
- Marble Mountain, a maze of caves, temples and countless marble shops showcasing impressive carvings.
- The famous Hai Van Pass, known from Top Gear, with hairpin bends and stunning views across mountains and sea.
Danang itself feels like a classic seaside resort. There’s a long promenade, a wide sandy beach, and countless seafood restaurants where you choose your dinner live from tanks of fish, crabs, lobsters and prawns.
A short walk takes you to the river, where the Dragon Bridge breathes fire every evening – well worth seeing.
Hoi An – Lantern-Lit Magic
From Danang, it’s about a 40-minute drive to Hoi An, one of our favourite stops.
We stayed in a wonderful riverside hotel ib the Old Town, perfectly placed to explore the many shops, cafés and restaurants. Hoi An truly comes alive at night, with hundreds of lanterns, candles floating on the river, bamboo boats offering romantic rides, a Japanese bridge and a lively night market.
We loved sitting at a riverside table, watching the world go by in the warm lantern glow, with some street food and a chilled beer.
Hoi An is also famous for its tailors, and there are many to choose from. We had suit jackets, dresses and leather shoes made to measure at very reasonable prices. We also did lots of xmas shopping at the night markets
By Train Through the Countryside to Quy Nhon
We then took a train from Danang to Dieu Tri, booking a four-berth sleeper compartment. The five-hour journey through the Vietnamese countryside was a highlight – rice fields, farmers in conical hats, buffalo, birds and everyday rural life passing by.
We brought our own food and drinks, although train attendants regularly came through selling snacks.
From Dieu Tri, a 40-minute taxi took us to Quy Nhon, where we stayed in a luxury villa with a private pool overlooking the ocean. With just 25 villas, the service was impeccable and the food outstanding – a perfect place to unwind.
An Unexpected Early Return… and a Reason to Go Back
The next stage of our trip should have included the Vietage train, Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh City. Unfortunately, I had an accident and we had to return home early.
That said, I can now officially say I’ve tested wheelchair assistance at Vietnamese airports – sometimes my research really is extreme!
The upside? We now have a very good excuse to go back and finish the trip. Vietnam completely won us over.
Top Tips for Travelling in Vietnam
Food & Drink
- Eat where it’s busy – a good sign of freshness.
- Food varies by region: excellent seafood on the coast, lots of chicken, pork, noodles, pho, and banh mi.
- Not overly spicy, very flavourful.
- Coffee is everywhere and excellent – coconut, salted, egg (once!), cappuccinos.
- Many drinks are served with ice; we avoided this.
- Expect low tables and chairs – stretch those knees!
- Very affordable: around £20 for dinner with drinks, beer from 50p, coffee and pastry under £5.
Health & Safety
- We had no stomach issues at all. We avoided ice, salads and peeled fruit (except bananas). Bottled water only, including brushing teeth.
- Avoid spirits outside hotels due to recent issues with counterfeit alcohol.
- Pavements are often blocked with mopeds, tables, chairs, street vendors – expect to step into the road.
- We felt safe throughout, but take normal precautions – no flash jewellery, use the hotel safe and be aware of your belongings
Money Matters
- Currency is Vietnamese Dong – lots of zeros! Currently around 3.5m to £1
- Many shops drop the last three zeros when quoting prices so you need to be careful
- A currency converter app is very helpful.
- We carried only enough cash for the day and used hotel safes.
- Starling debit card widely accepted (around 3% surcharge).
- Tipping not expected, but appreciated for guides and hotel staff.
- Barter kindly – aim for around 30% reduction at markets.
Best Buys
Tailored clothing and shoes, lanterns, pearls, leather goods, coffee, incense sticks, conical hats, pottery, woven goods, marble and lacquerware.
Language
A smile goes a long way. Locals appreciate you trying to learn a few words
- Xin Chào – Hello
- Cảm Ơn – Thank you
Google Translate is very useful.
Best Time to Visit
Vietnam’s climate varies by region. Generally:
- March–June: best overall weather
- September–October: good but with typhoon risk
Getting Around
- Direct flights from London to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City
- We flew Qatar Airways from Manchester via Doha
- Download GRAB (like Uber – including motorbikes!)
- Trains and buses are great if you have time
- Taxis are cheap; driving yourself is not for the faint-hearted
- WiFi is widely available; we used a local eSIM which worked well (SimLocal)
Ready to Plan Your Vietnam Adventure?
We can arrange independent tailor-made itineraries or escorted tours to suit your style, pace and budget.
Vietnam reminds me of how Thailand felt years ago – it’s changing quickly, with visible development everywhere.
My advice? Go now before it becomes too commercialised.
Get in touch and let’s start planning your Vietnam adventure
